圖文閱讀:米老鼠走進哈爾濱冰燈節
A Big Wall Falls in China to Make Room for Mickey
米老鼠走進哈爾濱冰燈節
For decades, locals in this frigid outpost south of Siberia shaved and chipped and hacked away at big blocks of ice to create China’s most popular wintertime tourist attraction.
幾十年來，這方南西伯利亞寒地的冰雕藝術創造了中國最受歡迎的冬季遊覽勝地。
Rising among the barren trees, the sculptures of the Harbin Ice Lantern Festival took the shapes of iconic Chinese monuments: the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, sacred Buddhist mountains.
在光禿的樹丫間，哈爾濱冰燈節的雕塑頗具中國特色：長城，紫禁城，神聖的佛教名山。
They took those shapes, that is, until this winter, when in sauntered Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck and Winnie the Pooh.
冰雕的造型諸如此類，直到這個冬天，米奇老鼠，唐老鴨和維尼熊走進了冰燈節。
What is perhaps the world’s most famous ice festival has become another of the world’s Disney theme parks, with a Disney licensing company taking over operations from the local Communist government. It is the first time a private company has run the ice festival.
隨着一家迪士尼授權公司從共產黨政府中接手了冰燈節的操辦，這個世界上最著名的冰燈節可能會變成另外一個迪士尼主題公園。這是首次由私人公司操辦冰燈節。
Snow White has replaced snow dragons. Children wander through the frozen hallways of Aladdin’s Castle instead of a Qing dynasty palace. “It’s a Small World” plays in one corner of the park. (What better theme music for globalization?)
白雪公主替代了龍。孩子們穿梭於阿拉丁神殿的走廊之間，而非身置清代宮殿之中。公園的角落播放着“世界真小”。（還有比這更好的全球化主題曲嗎？）
“It was too stodgy,” Qi Juwei, 51, the organizer of this year’s event, said of the old festival. “You can’t keep putting the same light in the same block of ice.”
“以前的活動太平庸了，”今年活動的組織者51歲的齊居偉（音譯）說。“你忍不住想把同一盞燈放在同一塊冰上。”
Mr. Qi is a native of Harbin who immigrated to Japan in the 1990s. (His legal Japanese name is Saito Miyori.) At age 12, he stood here in Zhaolin Park and marveled at an ice replica of the Yellow Crane Tower, an ancient pagoda. A few years ago, as vice president of Rendez-Vous, a Shanghai-based company that licenses Disney products in Asia, he gazed across the park and imagined workers stacking blocks of ice to build Cinderella’s castle, Mickey’s house and a Pirates of the Caribbean frigate.
齊先生是哈爾濱本地人，90年代時移居日本（日文名字Saito Miyori）。12歲時，他曾對兆麟公園的冰雕黃鶴樓嘖嘖稱奇。幾年前，作爲Rendez-Vous（一家以上海爲基地，經授權在亞洲銷售迪士尼產品的公司）的副主管，他在兆麟公園流連忘返，想象着工人們雕刻出灰姑娘的城堡，米奇老鼠的家和加勒比海盜。
The first ice lantern festival was held in Zhaolin Park in 1963. It became an annual tradition, with sculptures eventually supplanting lanterns, though the festival halted for several years during the Cultural Revolution. The event was so popular that it inspired two larger copycat ice and snow festivals on the outskirts of town.
首次兆麟公園冰燈節於1963年舉行，自此之後變成每年的傳統（雕刻漸漸取代了冰燈），在文化大革命時間斷過。這個活動如此受歡迎，它帶動了郊區另外兩個更大的冰燈節的舉行。
The one in Zhaolin Park is now in its 35th season, and it is a far cry from the days of candles flickering in ice lanterns. The Cinderella castle has an escalator running up and an ice slide running down. The entire park glows pink and blue and yellow from neon tubes in the sculptures. A Ferris wheel dominates the skyline.
這是兆麟公園的第三十五屆冰燈節，冰塊裏閃爍的燭光已成爲歷史遙遠的記憶。灰姑娘的城堡裏，自動扶梯慢慢攀升，冰滑梯順勢直下。整個公園沉浸在冰雕內粉藍黃的氖燈光裏，摩天輪劃過天際。
The Disney sculptures were created over a two-week period. Workers began hauling chunks of ice out of the Songhua River on Dec. 6. At the start, when the ice is thinner, the blocks weigh more than 850 pounds. As the ice thickens during the winter, the blocks can weigh up to twice that.
迪士尼雕塑的完成花了超過兩週的時間。工人們自12月6號就開始從松花江裏搬運冰塊。這時候，冰還比較薄，但也超過850磅。隨着冰在嚴冬裏逐漸變厚，冰塊可以變成原來的兩倍大。
A ticket costs $15, almost double what it was last year. That is expensive by Chinese standards, but the festival is still a big draw, with an average of 3,000 attendees per day. On a recent night, when temperatures dipped below minus 4 degrees Fahrenheit, thousands of people streamed in.
門票15美元，幾乎是去年的兩倍。這對中國人來說算是比較昂貴了，但是冰燈節深得人心，平均每天約有3,000名遊客前來遊玩。最近某個晚上，當溫度達到零下4華氏度時（-20℃，譯者注），數千人魚貫而入。
“This is beautiful,” said Li Jing, 22, a university student wearing fake cat ears who posed for a photo beneath a picture of Tigger on an ice wall. “It brings my childhood memories back. I watched a lot of cartoons when I was young, like Winnie the Pooh.”
“這些太美了，”22歲的大學生李靜（音譯）說，她戴着假貓耳朵與一隻冰牆上的跳跳虎合影。“這讓我找回了兒時的回憶，小時候我看了很多像維尼熊之類的動畫片。”
People coming to see more Chinese-themed sculptures now have to go to one of the two festivals north of the city, both run by the government or a state-owned enterprise. The older of the two was founded 15 years ago and has giant snow sculptures — a central piece this year is a replica of the Olympic stadium known as the Bird’s Nest. The other festival, The World of Ice and Snow, is only 10 years old, but has become the biggest and most popular of the three.
想要看到更多中國主題的冰雕，就要選擇城市北部另外兩個冰燈節之一了。那兩個都是政府或者國有企業主辦的。其中一個建立於15年前，有巨型冰雕——今年的壓軸作品是奧林匹克體育場，也就是衆所周知的鳥巢。另外一個——冰天雪地，僅僅建立了10年，但是已經成爲三個中最大也最受歡迎的一個。
The same size as Tiananmen Square, it is several times larger than the one in Zhaolin Park. It took 12,500 people to create the sculptures. It has soaring ice cathedrals with flashing lights, a gargantuan snow Buddha and an outdoor skating musical with an actor dressed as Uncle Sam.
與天安門廣場的面積相同，它比兆麟公園的冰燈節規模大得多。12,500人蔘與冰雕的製作。其中，帶着閃爍燈光的冰雕大教堂與日俱增。公園裏還有一座大型的冰雕佛陀和戶外溜冰音樂劇，演員着裝頗似山姆大叔。
