裏卡爾多蒂希 他拯救了紀梵希
Riccardo Tisci is sitting at a table in the parquet-floored showrooms of Givenchy in Paris, contemplating his upcoming 10-year anniversary. “It seems like yesterday,” says the designer, a swarthy 40-year-old who is today sporting a slight peppering of stubble and short, cropped hair.
Emotionally, maybe, but times have changed. In 2005, Givenchy was on the verge of bankruptcy, and the atelier reeling from successive design appointments that had seen John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald enter and exit the building within years of each other. “I had to cross the street to use the public photocopier because there wasn’t a working one in the Givenchy studio. We didn’t have the money.”
從情感上講或許是如此，但如今的紀梵希早已今非昔比。2005年，紀梵希瀕臨破產，當時的設計室因幾任設計總監如走馬燈似地更換而“風雨飄搖”，幾年裏，它先後“迎來送往”了約翰•加里亞諾(John Galliano)、亞歷山大•麥昆(Alexander McQueen)以及朱利安•麥克唐納(Julien Macdonald)等多位設計總監。“我不得不到街對面去使用公用複印機，因爲紀梵希設計室沒有一臺能正常使用，我們當時連維修的錢都沒有。”No one expected much then of LVMH’s signing, a streetwise Italian in jeans and sneakers who had studied at Central St Martins in London and staged only two collections under his own label, in Milan. “They called me ‘goth’,” says Tisci, speaking quickly in a strongly accented English that is nuanced with Londonisms and regularly defers to people as “baby”.
那時沒人看好這位路威酩軒(LVMH)新簽入的街頭浪子模樣的意大利設計師。他穿着牛仔褲與運動鞋，畢業於倫敦中央聖馬丁藝術設計學院(Central St Martins)，之前只在米蘭舉行了兩場自創品牌的發佈會。“時裝圈稱我是‘哥特人（野蠻人）’，”蒂希說，他的語速很快，說的英語口音很重，與倫敦腔英語有些差別，經常尊稱別人爲“baby”。
“Tom Ford was doing sexy and glam, and I was doing goth. I was very dark. And the press killed me.” He pauses. “It’s OK,” says, flicking the tip of an American Spirit into a nearby ashtray. “The same people that hated me then . . . After six years, they came.”
“湯姆•福特(Tom Ford)走的是性感和華麗路線，而我則是哥特式的設計風格，我非常崇尚黑色。當時媒體把我說得一無是處。”他停了一會兒然後又說，“不過沒關係，”並把American Spirit菸灰輕輕彈進一旁的菸灰缸。“當時對我口誅筆伐的同一波人……六年後，反過來對我大唱讚歌。”Tisci’s quiet direction, determined work ethic and intuitive brilliance have since transformed Givenchy, re-energising the fabled couture house founded by Hubert de Givenchy in 1952, and turning it into a profitable business (exact figures are frustratingly buried within the LVMH group’s aggregated financial statements).
蒂希穩重不張揚、堅持不懈的行事風格以及超常的直覺徹底改變了紀梵希，讓這家于貝爾•德•紀梵希(Hubert de Givenchy)於1952年創建、富有傳奇色彩的高級時裝品牌重煥了勃勃生機，併成爲財源滾滾的品牌（讓人掃興的是：其準確財務數據則淹沒在路威酩軒浩繁的總財報中）。Today, his influence reaches from the Hollywood red carpet – Cate Blanchett, Rooney Mara and Rihanna are all devotees of his darkly sensuous gowns – to the street: Givenchy printed sweats featuring totems of popular culture have become mandatory uniform among the louche-luxe weekend set.
如今，他的影響力已經如日中天，從好萊塢（凱特•布蘭切特(Cate Blanchett)、魯妮•瑪拉(Rooney Mara)到蕾哈娜(Rihanna)）的紅地毯到尋常阡陌：印有流行文化標識的紀梵希運動衫已成爲離經叛道奢侈一族的週末必備行頭。In 2008, he launched a highly successful menswear line. In 2012, he stopped showing couture. In September, he enshrined Kim Kardashian’s status as a fashion idol when he designed the reality star’s wedding dress. Elsewhere, his recent collaborations with Nike, a take on the Air Force 1 trainers he has worn since childhood, have offered kids a slice of Tisci cool with a bit more bounce for their buck.
2008年，他推出了風靡一時的男裝系列。2012年，他不再舉辦高級定製時裝發佈會。今年九月，他爲真人秀明星金•卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)設計婚紗裙後，一下子讓對方升格成了時尚偶像。此外，他最近與耐克(Nike)聯手推出了Air Force 1複製版運動鞋（他從孩提時代就穿該鞋），既賦予了孩子們一絲蒂希式的時尚感，更給他們增添了些許青春狂野味。This democratic, provocative, disarming, often moody refocus of a label once synonymous with refined elegance and a rarefied clientele, has been fundamental to Tisci’s vision. He makes no apology for it. Furthermore, he argues, his Givenchy reflects the same sensibility of its patrician founder.
紀梵希這個時尚品牌曾經與精緻優雅以及極少數高端客戶爲伴，如今它重新以平民化、刺激性、愜意感以及情緒化爲重點，它是蒂希的核心設計理念。他沒有對此表示出一絲“悔改”，更有甚者，他堅稱自己設計的紀梵希與貴族家庭出生的創始人于貝爾在情感上是一脈相承的。“Givenchy was one of the chicest of the luxury labels,” says Tisci. “But Hubert had a dark side. I discovered that when I went down to the archives. In the 1950s you couldn’t express that darkness, but you could see the severity of the design and I was attracted to it. We brought the street to the label, and made Givenchy more honest and real.”
“紀梵希曾是最爲時尚的奢侈品牌之一，”蒂希說。“但于貝爾內心有黑暗情節，我是在研讀相關檔案時發現這一點的。上世紀50年代，你無法直接表達這種‘黑暗情節’，但可以感同深受時裝的莊重感，我對此則癡迷不已。我們曾汲取了尋常生活元素，讓紀梵希變得更爲純粹與真實。”. . .
. . .Walk into a Givenchy store today, as one can, in Chongqing, China, or Kuwait, or most recently Las Vegas, and you will find £400 polo shirts with £250 chain-ring earrings and £4,000 butterfly-printed silk chiffon dresses next to £500 sneakers: Tisci’s high-low fashion has been key to the brand’s alchemy.
如今走進任何一家紀梵希門店，不管是在中國的重慶、科威特，還是在（最新開設門店）美國的拉斯維加斯，都能看到運動鞋（售價500英鎊）是和環鏈耳環（售價250英鎊）及印有蝴蝶圖案的真絲雪紡連衣裙（售價4000英鎊），和與之搭配的開領短袖襯衫（售價400英鎊）擺放在一起：蒂希的高低檔時裝混搭式銷售一直是紀梵希暢銷世界的絕招。
