聞香識人 香水廣告經久不衰的訴求

There's a long-running trope in perfume advertising that perfume speaks, and what it broadcasts is a message about its wearer.
香水廣告一個經久不衰的訴求點就是香水能說話，能傳遞有關香水使用者的信息。

In the 1950s, many perfumes spoke the message of feminine sexuality, a subversive message that was only socially acceptable to be spoken subliminally and invisibly, in perfume. In the 1950s perfume ad for Primitif, under the image of a sultry super-vixen with half-parted lips who looks like she just jumped from the cover of a pulp novel, a tagline asks, 'Why not let your perfume say the things you would not dare to?'
上世紀50年代，許多香水傳遞的是女性的性感；在當時的社會，這種大膽、具有顛覆性的信息只允許通過香水隱晦地透露一二。當時的Primitif香水廣告中就是一個超級惹火的嬌豔女郎，櫻脣微啓，活生生從低俗小說封面中跳出來一樣，下面的廣告語是：“爲何不讓你的香水把你不敢說的說出來呢？”

In Guerlain's Chant d'Aromes ad from 1965, we're told that a great perfume must do two things: 'It must express something for a woman that she would like to express herself, and it must be said in away that can be understood by men.' And in a Nuance ad from 1978, a few years before the big-shouldered 1980s fragrances such as Giorgio and Christian Dior's Poison shouted their messages, women were told their perfume shouldn't be too strong or loud. 'If you want to capture someone's attention,' it advised, 'whisper.'
嬌蘭(Guerlain)在1965年的“喜悅之歌”(Chant d'Aromes)香水廣告告訴我們，一瓶偉大的香水應做到以下兩點：必須能表達女人想表達的自己，同時必須能從某種意義上被男人理解。在寬肩盛行的80年代，Giorgio和迪奧(Christian Dior)的“毒藥”(Poison)等香水用濃郁的香氛大聲地表達，而就在那之前幾年，1978年的Nuance廣告則告訴女人，香水不應該太強烈或者太誇張。該廣告建議稱：“如果你想要吸引別人的注意力，低語傾訴就好。”

Perfumes still 'say' things, of course, but in a post-signature scent era, when women (and men) are offered upwards of 1,000 new fragrances a year to choose from, most people express different things with their perfumes, depending on their moods, the event they're going to, what they're wearing, or whatever they happen to grab on their dressers. Are these eternal, 'essential' truths about their wearers? Not so much, since perfume can be applied and taken off as easily as a Roberto Cavalli leopard print maxi-dress or an L.L. Bean down vest-jacket.
當然，如今香水依然能“表達”很多東西，但是在後標誌性香味時代，當女人（以及男人）每年有多至1,000種新香水可供選擇時，多數人會根據心情、要參加的活動、穿戴或者在梳妝檯上隨手抓來的香水錶達不同的信息。這些信息能反映出香水使用者永恆的、最本質的自我嗎？不見得，因爲香水可以和羅伯特・卡沃利(Roberto Cavalli)的豹紋長裙或是L.L. Bean的羽絨背心一樣穿脫自如。

Here are some of the most popular perfume families -- and what they say about you to others.
以下是一些最流行的香水系列以及它們所能傳遞的信息：

Citrus/Marine/Ozonic (i.e. 'clean') -- You probably carry hand sanitizer in your purse and consider organizing the contents of your purse as one of your hobbies. No-nonsense, unsentimental, and efficient, you are the leader of the pack, and probably prefer Tory Burch flats to Louboutin blood-red-heeled stillettos.
柑橘/海洋/臭氧系列（即“清爽”系列）――你可能會在包裏放無水洗手液，同時把歸類包裏的東西作爲興趣愛好。你不會瞎聊、不會感情用事、行事高效，是團隊的領袖，也許比起魯布托(Louboutin)的血紅底細高跟鞋，你會更喜歡托裏・伯奇(Tory Burch)的平底鞋。

Floral -- You like baking cookies, hand-writing thank you notes, and the idea of true love. You are a mix of introverted and extroverted. You project a conventional femininity that some would describe as 'classic.' To you, perfume means 'flowers,' and you don't see any need to question what has worked for millennia.
花香系列――你喜歡烤餅乾，手寫感謝卡，也相信真愛。你是內向和外向的集合體。你覺得傳統女性可以用“經典”來形容。對你來說，香水就意味着“各種各樣的花香”，你不認爲有任何必要去質疑已經延續了千年的真理。

Fruity and Fruity-Florals - Bubbly, flirty, and fun, you don't take anything too seriously, and you're the person people invite to their cocktail parties to get the festivities going. You're open and friendly.
水果和果味花香系列――你很活潑、喜歡與人逗樂、有趣好玩，不會認真看待任何事，你是大家都喜歡邀請到雞尾酒會上來帶動氣氛的人。你開放又友善。

Gourmand -- You are romantic and seductive. After all, you want to smell like vanilla, chocolate, praline, and cotton candy -- things someone could take a big bite out of. Generous and larger than life, you're not sure why someone would decorate her apartment in an all-beige color scheme when purple leopard-spotted wallpaper is available. In spite of the va-va-va-voom quality of the fragrances you like, you are also a comfort seeker. You probably own a hidden pair of jeggings you wear underneath your Snuggie on cold nights on the couch while eating bonbons.
美食香味系列――你很浪漫，還很性感。說到底，你希望自己聞起來像香草、巧克力、果仁糖和棉花糖這些大家想要咬上一大口的東西一樣。你爲人慷慨又大氣，你不明白爲什麼有紫色豹紋壁紙可供選擇的時候，會有人想要把她的公寓全部裝飾成米黃色調。儘管你喜歡的香水超有活力，你同時也喜歡舒適。或許在冷天縮在沙發上吃夾心軟糖的時候你會偷偷在毛毯下穿一條牛仔打底褲。

Oriental -- Like the gourmand lover, you prefer perfumes that contain sweet notes of vanilla and amber, but they also need dark and mysterious notes such as frankincense and myrrh. Romantic and sensitive, you live in your own world, or at least do your best to make the one you're in conform to your dreams. Some might describe you as 'intense,' others a 'drama queen.' When your perfume contains the 'tears' or resins that 'weep' from the barks of trees when they're wounded, as labdanum and balsams do, what do they expect?
東方香味系列――跟喜歡美食香味的人一樣，你更偏愛含有甜甜香草和琥珀味的香水，但同時它們也需要乳香和沒藥等黑暗和神祕的香調。你浪漫且敏感，活在自己的世界中，或者至少盡最大努力使生活符合你的夢想。有人可能會評價你“情感強烈”，也有人會說你喜歡“小題大做”。當你的香水裏含有勞丹脂和香脂等樹皮受傷時留下的“眼淚”時， 他們會作何感想呢？

Mossy and Woody -- You may be living in the 21st century, but you're what some might have described in the past as a 'dame,' and maybe even a 'dame with moxie.' Like the gal below, no one is going to find you sipping on an Appletini or wearing pink. More than likely, you'll be the one drinking a bitter espresso in the corner café reading Camus, Sheila Heti, or the DSM5 -- for fun. On a sunny Saturday afternoon. You're probably a Scorpio.
青苔和木香系列――你是生活在21世紀，但若在過去，你會被稱作“夫人”，甚至“勇敢的夫人”。與喜歡下一個系列香水的女人一樣，你不會喝蘋果馬提尼或穿粉紅色的衣服。你更有可能會在一個陽光明媚的週六下午在一個角落裏喝杯苦咖啡，讀讀加繆(Camus)、希拉・海蒂(Sheila Heti)的書或是第五版《精神疾病診斷與統計手冊》(DSM5)――純屬娛樂。你可能是天 座。

Leather/tobacco/musk/oud/incense: Voted in high school 'most likely to grow up to be an international spy,' your Platonic ideal of a good night out is donning your vintage Yves Saint Laurent 'Le Smoking' suit, drinking single-malt scotch neat at a dive bar with a mysterious stranger you just picked up at an art gallery in NYC's Chelsea neighborhood, and making out with him -- or her -- in the back of a taxi cab.
皮革/菸草/麝香/烏木/薰香系列――讀高中時被大家票選爲“最有可能成爲國際間諜的人”；你的理想夜生活是穿上覆古的伊夫 羅蘭(Yves Saint Laurent)的 “Le Smoking”套裝，在一間小酒吧喝着純麥不加冰的蘇格蘭威士忌，旁邊是一位你在紐約切爾西(Chelsea)某藝術畫廊認識的神祕陌生人，之後在出租車後座上與他（或她）親熱。