時裝設計師的房間 黛安·馮芙絲汀寶

In the second in a video series about designers in their offices and studios, Diane von Furstenberg, a standard-bearer of New York Fashion Week and the longtime president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, talks about creating her work/life space, what each object represents and the importance of color. (The conversation has been edited and condensed).

在一部講述設計師的辦公室和工作室生活的視頻系列裏，紐約時裝週的領袖、美國時裝設計師協會常任主席黛安·馮芙絲汀寶(Diane von Furstenberg)在第二集中談起如何創造自己的工作/生活空間、每件物品代表的意義以及色彩的重要性（下面的對話經過編輯和濃縮）。

Q. You built your office building from the ground up. Why?

問：你從頭開始建造了自己的辦公樓。爲什麼？

A. I think the architecture of things is very much Linked to the architect of the business. Where people sit and how you plan all charts — all of that is important.

答：我覺得事物的構建與公司的締造者有很大關係。人們坐在哪裏，你如何制定所有的計劃——這些都很重要。

Have you always worked where you live?

你總是在自己居住的地方工作嗎？

When I first started my company again in 1998, ’97, I moved to West 12th Street, and I bought a small carriage house, and everybody thought I was crazy. “What are you doing in that neighborhood? It’s full of condoms, it smells bad” — this and that. But it was beautiful, and I did my studio there, my office, and we started there. Then I even opened a little shop there. But then the neighborhood started to change, and I needed more space, and I wanted a corner. I just love corners. So I bought these three buildings, in the meatpacking district.

1997到1998年左右我重新開始自己的公司時，搬到了西12街，買了一個小馬車房，所有人都認爲我瘋了。“你到那片地方幹什麼？那裏到處都是安全套，很難聞”，諸如此類。但是它很漂亮，我的工作室、辦公室都在那裏，我們從那裏起步。我後來甚至在那裏開了個小小的門店。但是後來那個地方開始發生變化，我需要更大的空間，我想要一個街角的房子。我就是很喜歡街角。所以我在肉庫區買下了這三幢樓。

Could you explain the renovation?

你能講述一下翻修過程嗎？

The problem is in the meantime we had passed a law to make this neighborhood a historic district, so when I bought these three little buildings I couldn’t touch them. I had to go to landmark and make a plan, and so actually it cost me a lot more because I had to keep this brick facade and gut completely the inside. Now the fourth floor is marketing, third floor is sales, second floor is showroom, first floor is the shop. And I have my little treehouse upstairs. It’s nothing but a bedroom really. This is my living room and my office. My exercise is going up the stairs.

問題是，當時通過了一條法律，把這一帶變成了歷史保護區，所以我買下這三座小樓時不能動它們。我必須把它作爲地標建築，並制訂一個計劃，所以實際上的花費增加了很多，因爲我對內部進行徹底改變的同時，必須保留它的磚牆外觀。現在四層是市場部，三層是銷售部，二層是展廳，一層是門店。我在樓上有個屬於自己的小小“樹屋”，其實就是個臥室。這裏是我的起居室和辦公室。我的健身活動就是走樓梯。

What’s on your desk?

你的書桌上有什麼？

Colored pencils. Good-luck things, my evil eyes to protect me, things I need, photographs, all my papers, my mail, things I have to read ... my life.

彩色鉛筆。能帶來好運的東西、邪惡之眼護身符、我要用的東西、照片，所有的文件、信件，我必須讀的東西……我的生活。

Is it important for you to be surrounded by color?

被色彩包圍對你來說很重要嗎？

When people ask me that, I say just imagine the world in black and white, you know. Imagine a garden in black and white, how sad. I never thought pink was my thing — uh, one day it just happened. It’s a sort of Mexican pink. This room was not decorated, it’s just things that I have, you know, things that I’ve had along the way.

人們這麼問我的時候，我會說，想像一下只有黑白兩色的世界。想像一個只有黑白兩色的花園，那該多麼陰鬱。我從沒想過粉紅色會成爲我喜歡的顏色——呃，不知怎麼有一天我就喜歡上它了，是一種墨西哥粉紅色。這個房間沒有裝修，就是我放東西的地方——我一路走來收藏的各種東西。

For example?

比如？

The mandala over there was given to me last year. Christian Louboutin and I met the king of Bhutan, and he gave me that. The painting behind me is a picture Peter Lindbergh did of me, reinterpreted by a Chinese artist. It’s made out of ashes — ashes collected in a Buddhist temple. And there is an Avedon photograph of my daughter, pictures of my granddaughters and grandsons, my mother, my friend Ingrid Betancourt [the Colombian politician], who was kidnapped and was a prisoner for seven years. When she was released, the first dress she bought was a DVF dress. That’s the Obamas’s first Christmas card, where Mrs. Obama was wearing a wrap dress. The chairs we are sitting on were a present from my husband.

那邊的曼荼羅是去年別人送給我的。我和克里斯提·魯布托(Christian Louboutin)拜見了不丹國王，那是他送給我的。我身後的畫是一位中國藝術家根據彼得·林德伯格(Peter Lindbergh)給我拍的照片重新創作的。它用灰燼製成的，就是佛教寺廟裏收集的香灰。還有阿維頓(Avedon)給我女兒拍的照片，我外孫女和外孫的照片，我媽媽的照片，我的朋友英格麗德·貝當古（Ingrid Betancourt，哥倫比亞政治家）的照片。英格麗德遭到綁架，被囚禁七年。獲釋後她買的第一條裙子就是DVF的連衣裙。那是奧巴馬寄給我的第一張聖誕賀卡，上面是奧巴馬伕人穿着一條裹裙。我們坐的椅子是我丈夫送給我的禮物。

What is your favorite thing in the room?

這房間裏你最喜歡的東西是什麼？

I feel at my best behind the desk. I went to visit Tolstoy’s house. And, in Russian houses, in every room you have a bed, a desk and a chair. And that’s because in Russian history everybody writes their diary, so everybody needs a desk. I love desks. I have a passion for big tables and desks.

我坐在書桌後面時感覺最好。我參觀過托爾斯泰(Tolstoy)的家。俄羅斯人家裏每個房間都有牀、書桌和椅子。因爲在俄羅斯歷史上，每個人都寫日記，所以每個人都需要一張書桌。我非常喜歡書桌。我鍾愛大桌子和書桌。

Do you have meetings there?

你在這裏開會嗎？

When I have meetings with people from the outside, we do it at the round table, because I don’t want them to feel like I am at the head of the table. At the couch I do every kind of interviews. Press interviews, when I interview somebody for a job. It’s more intimate.

我和訪客在圓桌邊開會，因爲我不想讓他們覺得我坐在首席的位置。我坐在沙發上接受媒體採訪或者面試別人。這樣顯得更親切。

Do you work on the computer?

你用電腦工作嗎？

I do work on the computer, and a lot on my iPad. I have programs where you can doodle. Many of my prints come from doodle or photographs.

我用電腦工作，我經常用iPad工作。我裝了很多塗鴉軟件。我的很多印花來自那些塗鴉或照片。

Do your collections start with prints?

你的時裝系列是從印花開始的嗎？

The first thing is the mood, and that usually comes from me. Then we make mood boards and narrow down and change our mind. The next step is the palette. Color palette is so important. From there you go into the prints, and the silhouette. The silhouettes come very plain, and then you dress them with the prints.

首先是一種情緒，通常是我的情緒。然後我們做情緒板，縮小範圍，進行修改。然後是調色板。調色板也很重要。然後開始設計印花和剪裁。剪裁非常簡樸，用印花來做裝飾。

So is this room a record of your life?

所以說這個房間是你生活的記錄？

Yes, of course. But everything is a record of my life, including my face.

當然是的。不過所有的東西都是我生活的記錄，包括我的臉。