米蘭頹廢青年的守護神(下)

The bar is close to Parco delle Basiliche. I thought it would be nice for young people to have a place when they can get a cheap beer to enjoy the park and the square, Rattazzo said. "Especially in the summers, who wants to drink inside four walls?"

Rattazzo 說，“酒吧靠近大教堂公園（Parco delle Basiliche），我想，如果有地方讓年輕人購買廉價啤酒，在公園和廣場上暢飲，一定會是個好主意。尤其是夏天，誰想悶坐在四堵牆裏喝酒呢？”

The idea was a hit. Rattazzo added panino and meatballs to the menu. Artists and journalists living in Ticinese also began coming to eat and discuss political issues. They were known collectively as theGioventú Bruciata, or Wasted Youth, a reference to the Italian title for the 1950 film Rebel Without a Cause. These students and workers began challenging the status quo in both employment and education. In 1968 and 1969, it came to a head when students occuPied universities and workers led strikes across the north, a time now referred to as the Hot Autumn.

這個主意大受歡迎。Rattazzo 還在菜單上增加了小麪包和肉丸。住在提契諾區的藝術家和記者們也開始來酒吧吃東西，討論政治問題。他們被合稱爲“Gioventú Bruciata”（頹廢青年），這來自 1950 年的意大利電影《無因的反叛》（Rebel Without a Cause）。這些學生和工人開始對教育和就業現狀發出挑戰。尤爲突出的是 1968 年和 1969 年，在意大利北部，學生佔領大學，工人組織罷工，現在將這個時期稱爲火熱的秋天（Hot Autumn）。

By 1971, Bar Rattazzo was well known as the unofficial speakeasy of Milan’s far-left movement. Throughout the ‘70s, anarchists, socialists, and communists met to write manifestos over beers and cheap eats. Revolutionary writer Mario Capanna, street artist Davide Tinelli and Anarcho-punk author Primo Moroni are just a few of the legendary Ticinese residents who became regulars at Bar Rattazzo.

到了 1971 年，Rattazzo 酒吧成爲米蘭極左運動中遠近聞名的反主流文化地下酒吧。整個 1970 年代，無政府主義者、社會主義者和共產主義者常常在這裏聚會，一邊享用廉價啤酒和食物，一邊撰寫各種宣言。革命作家馬里奧•卡帕納（Mario Capanna）、街頭藝術家達維德•蒂內利（Davide Tinelli）和無政府朋客作家普里莫•莫洛尼（Primo Moroni）等提契諾區居民中的傳奇人物都曾是 Rattazzo 酒吧的常客。

As the 1970s came to a close, the idealism of the era lost focus during the heroin epidemic of the late ‘70s and early ‘80s. The parks and piazzas near Bar Rattazzo became increasingly dangerous; muggings were a constant concern. Most famously, the fugitive gangster Renato Vallanzasca, “Il Bel René” (the pretty boy Renè) began to lurk in Parco delle Basiliche, bringing with him the air of lawlessness that permeated the time.

1970 年代末期，在 1970 年代末期和 1980 年代初期海洛因氾濫的時代，理想主義時代迷失了方向。Rattazzo 酒吧附近的公園和廣場日益危機重重，行兇搶劫屢見不鮮。最著名的就是逃亡的暴徒 Renato Vallanzasca（“Il Bel René”——漂亮男孩勒內），他開始潛伏在大教堂公園，隨他而來的是瀰漫在那個年代的無法無天。

Junkies were snatching necklaces right outside my shop. It was a scary time. Things are much better now, Rattazzo said.

Rattazzo 說，“吸毒者就在我的酒吧外搶劫項鍊。那個時候可真恐怖，現在的情況要好多了”。

In response, the city closed parks after sunset and the once youthful surroundings were cloaked in the shadow of drugs and crime. Without a place to congregate, the neighbourhood lost its centre and students were forced to move from one place to another as cops and criminals harassed them after dark. It wasn’t until the 1990s that drug use declined and crime was brought under control.

針對這樣的情況，米蘭決定在日落後關閉公園以及籠罩着毒品和犯罪陰影的年輕人聚集地帶。失去了聚集場所，社區也就失去了中心地位，學生們被迫四處遷移，因爲天黑後警察和罪犯都會騷擾他們。直到 1990 年代，吸毒和犯罪纔得到控制。

In the early 2000s, Italian brands like Armani and Dolce & Gabbana saw Ticinese as a place to market to young people. They tried to buy out storeowners in hopes of turning the main street, Corso di Porta Ticinese, into a fashion hub. Rattazzo was approached by both to sell his shop and refused. He finally relented and sold the store to the now defunct fashion brand, Guru, moving his shop in the alley Via Vetere, a few metres closer to the park.

2000 年代初，阿瑪尼（Armani）和杜嘉班納（Dolce & Gabbana）等意大利品牌將提契諾區作爲向年輕人推廣的購物場所。他們設法購買店家，希望將主幹道 Corso di Porta Ticinese 改造爲時尚中心。阿瑪尼和杜嘉班納都曾希望 Rattazzo 賣掉酒吧，但他拒絕了。他最終心軟，將酒吧店面賣給了現已不復存在的時尚品牌“Guru”，並將酒吧遷至距離公園僅幾米之遙的小巷 Via Vetere。

I never plan to close or retire. Being around young people keeps me young. That’s why I’m still here, Rattazzo said.

Rattazzo 表示，“我從未打算要關掉酒吧或是退休。在年輕人中間會讓我感到年輕。這也是我之所在還在這裏的原因”。

Nowadays, the neighbourhood, once a mecca of the Milanese left, is filled with families and tourists. Chinese immigrants have revitalized the area with restaurants and bars. Armani and Dolce & Gabbana have moved on, but in their place are younger fashion brands like Carhartt and Camper. The young people are still here, too, hanging out on the steps of the Piazza della Vetra and drinking cheap beers on the lawn of Parco delle Basiliche. Most are unaware that the old man selling beers from the small bar in the alley is a legend, who fostered the atmosphere of freedom they now enjoy.

如今在這個當初米蘭的聖地，到處是當地居民和遊客。中國移民經營的餐廳和酒吧讓這個地區重又煥發生機。阿瑪尼和杜嘉班納繼續經營，但其地盤上又出現了年輕的時尚品牌，如卡哈特（Carhartt）和看步（Camper）。年輕人仍然會來這裏，在大教堂公園的階梯上閒逛，在大教堂公園的草地上喝廉價的啤酒。大多數人並不會意識到，在巷子裏小酒吧裏兜售啤酒的老人是一個傳奇，他曾經爲營造他們現在所享有的自由空氣做出貢獻。